Taste buds, it seems, can be allies of cultural integration and economic empowerment as of mutually exclusive, self-limiting policies alike. Pasta is rarely if ever the first thing to come to mind when we think of protectionism and anti-immigration impulses. Yet the city council of the Tuscan town of Lucca in Italy, a picturesque tourist hot spot for international visitors, recently announced a new initiative to crack down on immigrant-run restaurants serving non-Italian food in order to protect its culinary heritage and corner the food consumption market in its centro storico, or historic center.
Imagine the culinary landscape of North America had not a whole lot of entrepreneurial first-generation immigrants the guts, gusto and gastronomical know-how to open diners and restaurants for their communities and the new wider ones in which they came to live. Yes, that includes an implied dearth of hot dogs, pizza and hamburgers as well as sushi, curries, chop sui, tacos and foie gras. Forget tv shows like Top Chef and Hell's Kitchen. And yes, doing so was and is what allowed their children to become other types of professionals from doctors to engineers, boosting quality of life for them and their inherited countries. Even those who stick to the proverbial meat and potatoes would lose something if all Greek-owned (or once so) diners charicatured in My Big Fat Greek Wedding had been or were to be forced to close.
The great irony in the Italian case is that many of the key ingredients used in their "native" foods were a few short centuries ago originally imports: tomatoes and potatoes from South America, and the iconic pasta from Asia thanks to Marco Polo's pioneering global voyages. The following statement by the right-wing, anti-immigration Italian politician is tantamount to a selective historical revisionism, not to say poor judgment: "This is not a battle against anything or anyone, but a defense of our culture and our agriculture... In Italy we have available 4,500 typical food products. Every one of these represents the culture and history of our country."
The targets of this culinary protectionist initiative fueled by impulses of misguided immigration reform are mostly kebab houses and Chinese restaurants. In attacking the measure, a more moderate but equally misguided official said that the measure would also unintentionally stop high-end French restaurants from serving oysters and champagne. Thanks for the prioritization, buddy, I'm sure foreign students touring Europe and tired of eating free leftover pasta at youth hostels will appreciate it as much as your entourage. This line of policymaking is not the same as that which seeks to safeguard traditional regionally-produced foods such as Feta cheese and local wines, but one mistaking cultural exclusion for promotion and economic limitation for preservation.
One of the cherished privileges of having lived in urban centers such as Montreal, Vancouver and Chicago was to be able to eat what was for me exotic foods from dozens of countries for less than I could have cooked them for myself at home. Many culinary experts also contend that no food traditions are genuinely singular. I would add that to enact policies that affirm this illusion takes away from unequaled role food has, does and will continue to play in bringing members of local communities and worldwide immigrant networks together while empowering their and their children socio-economically, a vital longtime current event which has created the future in which we live.

